Photography by Rob Kulisek. Styled by Alex Tudela.
For men’s wear, New York Fashion Week has become less a traditional week of shows and more a smattering of presentations. Some designers have elected to forgo presentations and editors’ previews altogether, including these five up-and-comers who challenge the heritage-based “all-American” aesthetic that has become typical of many New York men’s wear labels. Here T offers an exclusive first look at their spring/summer 2015 collections.
Illustration by Konstantin Kakanias
For many years, it felt like there was a choice before us: look grown-up and sexy or clomp around like a hearty German tourist. We all knew that flats were practical. But like pencil skirts and straightened hair, high heels denoted polish.
Looking over the fall fashion spreads of designer orthopedic sandals and neon-hued sneakers, I suspect that girls today probably don’t feel the need to wear heels to transform themselves into grown-up women the way I did. Whereas heels were once integral to power dressing, flats now connote a liberation from that stereotype. As clothes have become more gender-neutral, the need to announce our femininity with a percussive soundtrack has vanished.
The sight, from across the street, of Francesca Amfitheatrof taking in the morning air on the upstairs balcony of her Brooklyn home — a grand, free-standing 1889 Romanesque Revival townhouse in the eclectic neighborhood of Clinton Hill — might almost be an apparition. Lissome and fair, with a profile that calls to mind a John Singer Sargent portrait, she suggests a vision from a bygone era, the original lady of the house. Yet despite her Old World elegance, Tiffany & Company’s first female design director is very much a modern woman.
(Photo: Flora Hanitijo)